These past two weeks have been so jam packed, I haven’t had the chance to update everyone, as promised, on my favorite looks from the NYFW SS’14 collections.
So, without further ado….
Alison Baenen wrote in her review of Osklen’s SS’14 RTW that the “graphic and fun” collection was “cheapened by the addition of clear plastic layers.”
Call me cheap and tasteless, but I beg to differ.
Solid separates in bright color spectrums were seen on Spring runways everywhere from freshman line ICB, to fashion’s heavy hitter Ralph Lauren. By the time the sixth day of NYFW rolled around, I was over it. (Note—Sex In The City: “Over. O-V-E-R. God, I’m so bored I could die”) Really.
Don’t get me wrong, from an editorial perspective, I love how easy it is to pinpoint this upcoming season’s trends–but there are only so many times you can see the exact same shamrock green shift sliced and diced into separate pairings. Midriff bearing blouse and Bermuda short combo, swing tank and short-short pairing, midriff bearing blouse and mini skirt, swing tank with Bermuda short…etc. Most of these collections felt like a casual version of Gucci SS’13 sans ruffles. (Which was the best part of the collection!)
Then, Wednesday evening I saw Osklen’s runway collection, and my perspective shifted. Those same commonplace looks I saw at other shows became covetable, modern, interesting—because of the strategic plastic overlay abstracting the line’s sporty separates.
This can’t just be my avant-garde inclinations at play, either. Many in the crowd had the same reaction upon the first gemstone hued, PVC apparition. Cameras came out., editors turned to one another. The creations were obscure and futuristic, yet completely wearable–something I had yet to see done in such a tangible way.
Oh! I almost forgot… those sunglasses! Every single one of them. If they are for sale, I will definitely be investing in a pair this Spring.
2. J. Mendel
Looking at a photo, does not nearly provide the same effect of viewing J. Mendel’s neutral, textured look as watching it in motion on the runway. I know that sounds cliché and elitist, but the complexity of the skirt’s detail, and the sheer luxury of the python biker jacket doesn’t translate as well in 2-D. You should see the skirt’s movement, and the way the light hits the jacket’s exotic skin.
In all honesty, I wasn’t too wild about the collection as a whole, (pea green and patchwork isn’t really my thing) but this look nailed it. Mendel’s ability to take a head-to-toe neutral look and use texture to add interest, was pure luxury.
Sheer unparalleled perfection.
Altuzzara is always a NYFW favorite of Mme.’s. Effortless, sexy, elevated—there’s something very down to earth about his design while still maintaining it’s high fashion pedigree.
This sumptuous leather-on-leather look is absolute divinity. It’s no secret I love fringe and a high slit—very rock n’ roll chic a la Carine Roitfeld.
4. Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta, at the age of 81, sent down the runway one of the most cohesive, fashion forward, at inspired collections of NYFW SS’14. From start to finish, his vision was clearly articulated, beautifully executed, and each ladylike look was entirely different from the one shown before, while maintaining the collection’s consistency. Young designers should take note. #OscarIsKing
5. Alexander Wang
Finally, there’s Wang. It’s hard to remember a time before Alexander Wang was a household name. His ability to craft urban pieces with the tailoring of a master atelier has solidified his icon status as New York’s most influential contemporary designer.
This collection particularly is poignant since I feel it marks a huge turning point in the past decade’s style trajectory—the re-emergence of the logo.
This Spring is semi reminiscent of 90’s New York club scene, models donned oversized shirt dresses complete with PARENTAL ADVISORY logos. The kicker, though—monogrammed gloves and belts emblazoned with Wang’s namesake.
I’m not saying to grab out your rainbow hued Louis Vuittons’s and Christian Audiger trucker hats just yet…but be aware. Logo culture is coming back.
HONORABLE MENTION: Christian Siriano
I had to include the closing look from Siriano–a diaphanous ballgown, with appliqué flowers in resplendent rose. I know eveningwear is nothing new or groundbreaking, but my jaw dropped when I saw this come down the runway.
This was my favorite piece all of fashion week, the craftsmanship, the sensitivity to detail put into this, and the optimistic tone it ended the show on. Playful, but not silly. Elegant, but not stuffy. This dress is truly everything.
Okay. Now I need to start working on London!
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